WANT BETTER SKIN? MAKE THIS TINY CHANGE

The skin-care advice delivered to me during a facial is typically some sort of overwhelmingly large lifestyle change ("Do you consume a lot of cheese and milk? Stop." "No more spicy food, ever." "Go gluten-free." "Cut soy."). So when Carrie Lindsey, a facialist at Shen Beauty in Brooklyn, told me about a tiny tweak that could transform my skin—washing my face with cool water instead of my usual steaming-hot splashes—it seemed surprisingly manageable. I was in.

Cranking the faucet handle to the far left every morning and in the shower every night (even when outdoor-air temperatures aren't plunging) is as automatic for me as breathing. But it turns out, that's a major skin sin: As comforting as hot water feels, it saps moisture, leaving your face dry and tight. "I tell my clients to wash their faces with cool-to-lukewarm water, then rinse with cold water to seal and close the pores," says Lindsey. "Too much heat is never good for the skin."

Dermatologist Joshua Zeichner echoes this advice: "While we all love long, hot showers in the winter, they're no good for our skin. They can actually strip the skin of essential oil that protects the outer layer." It can also exacerbate other skin problems, according to dermatologist Judith Hellman. "Hot water dilates the blood vessels and can result in flare-ups of rosacea and other conditions. Washing in general, but especially with hot water, removes the protective layer of lipids over the skin," she says.

When the skin's lipids (or fats) start to wear away, moisture creeps out of the gaps in your skin's barrier. "The skin develops cracks, can't properly protect itself, and further loses water content," explains Zeichner. (And if tiny, moisture-leaking cracks in the skin weren't bad enough, dehydration causes dead skin cells to cling to the skin, rather than sloughing off, making it look drab in addition to feeling thirsty and desperate.)

Lindsey's cool-water switch is a simple, no-fail way to fight this drying, dulling process. "Treat skin like delicates in the laundry—cool wash and a cold rinse. Every now and then a little steam session or warm water won't hurt," she says, "but not very often. Once a week is my recommendation." In addition to nixing that twice-a-day hot-water habit, "look for products with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, a humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum for hydration" advises Zeichmer (try Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel or Kaplan MD Cellular Rejuvenating Concentrate). "Ceramides help replace the fats that may have been lost and seal in cracks between skin cells” (he likes CeraVe Moisturizing Cream).

Source link: http://www.allure.com/beauty-trends/blogs/daily-beauty-reporter/2015/10/cool-water-skin-care.html

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THE 10 COMMANDMENTS OF CLEAR SKIN

1. KEEP IT CLEAN

Your makeup might hide zits, but it also traps free radicals against your skin, says Zoe Draelos, a professor of dermatology at Duke University. Wash your face morning, night, and after the gym with a cleanser that contains up to 2 percent salicylic acid. We like Burt's Bees Natural Acne Solutions Purifying Gel Cleanser for sensitive skin.

2. DON'T POP YOUR ZITS

It's so hard not to, we know. But try to resist. Popping your pimples will only result in inflammation, scarring, and yes, more acne. If you're truly tempted, some experts suggest keeping your hands busy with a squeeze toy.

3. BUT IF YOU DO...

OK, what's done is done. Now disinfect the area with a 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide product such as Neutrogena On-the-Spot Acne Treatmentand dot on a salicylic acid—dermatologist Doris Day recommends Clean & Clear Advantage Popped Pimple Relief Drying Paste—to help unclog the pore

4. STICK WITH THE BASICS

There are certain ingredients that have proven themselves in clinical trials (benzoyl peroxide or glycolic or salicylic acid for acne)—use them. And give them a chance: They need at least six weeks to work. "If nothing has changed by week six, the product will never work for you," says David Bank, a professor of dermatology at Columbia University/New York-Presbyterian Hospital. Then, it's time to see a dermatologist—prescription products or in-office treatments may offer some relief.

5. TRY RETINOIDS

Retinoids aren't just for wrinkles. They also fade spots, build collagen, and prevent acne—but only when used correctly. At night, instead of your overnight acne treatment, dot a pea-size amount (we like Sadick Dermatology Group PM Reversal Serum) on your fingertips and rub it all over your face. "Using them on the skin as a whole helps with cell turnover," says Heidi A. Waldorf, director of cosmetic and laser dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City

6. TREAT EARLY

Spot-treating your pimple can reduce its lifespan by one to two days. But the real goal is a clear complexion—and early intervention is key. "You need to prevent acne from forming, and that means treating skin that's prone to pimples even if there are none present," says dermatologist Karyn Grossman. So use all acne products over your entire face.

7. BUT DON'T OVERTREAT

Overusing acne products can lead to excess drying and, in some cases, chemical burns. Apply the amount recommended on the packaging (usually enough for a thin layer), not a giant palmful. Finish with an oil-free moisturizer.

8. CALM DOWN

Easier said than done, we know. But stress hormones increase oil production, which can lead to clogged pores and whiteheads. So make an effort to relax when needed. "Anything that reduces stress in your body—tai chi, running, sex, a warm bath—will make you have less acne, less often," says Richard Fried, a dermatologist and clinical psychologist in Yardley, Pennsylvania.

9. PROTECT YOUR SKIN

Acne products can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage, so be sure to use SPF 30 or higher. Look for formulas labeled noncomedogenic, which won't clog pores. We love Coppertone Oil Free Faces Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30.

10. FADE SCARS

Just because the pimple's gone doesn't mean it disappeared. Use a scar treatment with salicylic acid and licorice-root extract, likeClearasil Ultra Acne + Marks Spot Lotion, on dark spots to fade them over time.

Source link: http://www.allure.com/skin-care/2012/10-commandments-clear-skin

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10 WINTER SKIN CARE TIPS

For many people, the cold clear days of winter bring more than just a rosy glow to the cheeks. They also bring uncomfortable dryness to the skin of the face, hands, and feet. For some people, the problem is worse than just a general tight, dry feeling: They get skin so dry it results in flaking, cracking, even eczema (in which the skin becomes inflamed).

"As soon as you turn the heat on indoors, the skin starts to dry out," Bonnie LaPlante, an esthetician with the Canyon Ranch resort in Lenox, Mass., tells WebMD. "It doesn't matter if you heat your home using oil, wood, or electricity. The skin gets dry."

Sound familiar? Read on to get WebMD's top 10 tips for boosting your winter skin care regimen, so that your skin stays moist and healthy through the winter months.

1. Seek a Specialist

If you go to your local drugstore, you'll be hard put to find a salesperson who can give you good advice. That's why going to an esthetician or dermatologist even once is a good investment. Such a specialist can analyze your skin type, troubleshoot your current skin care regimen, and give you advice on the skin care products you should be using.

But that doesn't mean you'll be stuck buying high-end products. "Inexpensive products work just as well as high-end ones," says David Voron, MD, a dermatologist in Arcadia, Calif. "In fact, the extra price you pay for the expensive stuff is often just for packaging and marketing. What's most important is how your skin responds to the product -- and how you like its feel, not how much money you paid for it."

2. Moisturize More continued

You may have found a moisturizer that works just fine in spring and summer. But as weather conditions change, so, too, should your skin care routine. Find an "ointment" moisturizer that's oil-based, rather than water-based, as the oil will create a protective layer on the skin that retains more moisture than a cream or lotion. (Hint: Many lotions labeled as "night creams" are oil-based.)

3. Slather on the Sunscreen

No, sunscreen isn't just for summertime. Winter sun combined with snow glare can still damage your skin. Try applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen to your face and your hands (if they're exposed) about 30 minutes before going outside. Reapply frequently if you stay outside a long time.

4. Give Your Hands a Hand

The skin on your hands is thinner than on most parts of the body and has fewer oil glands. That means it's harder to keep your hands moist, especially in cold, dry weather. This can lead to itchiness and cracking. Wear gloves when you go outside; if you need to wear wool to keep your hands warm, slip on a thin cotton glove first, to avoid any irritation the wool might cause.

5. Avoid Wet Gloves and Socks

Wet socks and gloves can irritate your skin and cause itching, cracking, sores, or even a flare-up of eczema.

6. Hook Up the Humidifier

Central heating systems (as well as space heaters) blast hot dry air throughout our homes and offices. Humidifiers get more moisture in the air, which helps prevent your skin from drying out. Place several small humidifiers throughout your home; they help disperse the moisture more evenly.

7. Hydrate for Your Health, Not for Your Skin

If you've heard it once, you've heard it a thousand times: Drinking water helps your skin stay young looking. In fact, it's a myth. Water is good for your overall health and "the skin of someone who is severely dehydrated will benefit from fluids. But the average person's skin does not reflect the amount of water being drunk," Kenneth Bielinski, MD, a dermatologist in Oak Lawn, Ill., tells WebMD "It's a very common misconception."

LaPlante agrees. "I see clients at the spa who drink their 10 to 12 glasses of water a day and still have superdry skin. It just doesn't do that much."

8. Grease Up Your Feet

Yes, those minty foot lotions are lovely in the hot summer months, but during the winter, your feet need stronger stuff. Try finding lotions that contain petroleum jelly or glycerine instead. And use exfoliants to get the dead skin off periodically; that helps any moisturizers you use to sink in faster and deeper.

9. Pace the Peels

If your facial skin is uncomfortably dry, avoid using harsh peels, masks, and alcohol-based toners or astringents, all of which can strip vital oil from your skin. Instead, find a cleansing milk or mild foaming cleanser, a toner with no alcohol, and masks that are "deeply hydrating," rather than clay-based, which tends to draw moisture out of the face. And use them a little less often.

10. Ban Superhot Baths

Sure, soaking in a burning-hot bath feels great after frolicking out in the cold. But the intense heat of a hot shower or bath actually breaks down the lipid barriers in the skin, which can lead to a loss of moisture. "You're better off with just warm water," LaPlante advises, "and staying in the water a shorter amount of time."

A lukewarm bath with oatmeal or baking soda, can help relieve skin that is so dry it has become itchy, Bielinski notes. So, too, can periodically reapplying your moisturizer. If those techniques don't work, go see a dermatologist. "You may need a prescription lotion to combat the dry skin," Bielinski says. "Or you may have a condition that isn't simply dry skin and that requires different treatment."

Source link: http://www.webmd.com/beauty/skin/ten-winter-skin-care-tips?page=1

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TIPS FOR TAKING CARE OF YOUR SKIN

Sometimes it may seem like your skin is impossible to manage, especially when you wake up and find a huge zit on your nose or a cold sore at the corner of your mouth. The good news is that there are ways to prevent and treat common skin problems — read on for some tips.

Acne

A pimple starts when the pores in the skin become clogged with a type of oil calledsebum, which normally lubricates the skin and hair. Acne is common during puberty when hormones go into overdrive, causing the skin to overproduce sebum. Because many oil-producing glands are on the forehead, nose, and chin, this area — the T-zone — is where a person is most prone to pimples.

Here are some tips to help prevent breakouts and clear them up as fast as possible:

• Wash your face twice a day (no more) with warm water and a mild soap made for people with acne. Gently massage your face with circular motions. Don't scrub. Overwashing and scrubbing can cause skin to become irritated. After cleansing, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends applying an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) lotion containing benzoyl peroxide.
• Don't pop pimples. It's tempting, but here's why you shouldn't: Popping pimples can push infected material further into the skin, leading to more swelling and redness, and even scarring. If you notice a pimple coming before a big event, like the prom, a dermatologist can often treat it for you with less risk of scarring or infection.
• Avoid touching your face with your fingers or leaning your face on objects that collect sebum and skin residue like your phone. Touching your face can spread the bacteria that cause pores to become inflamed and irritated. To keep bacteria at bay, wash your hands before applying anything to your face, such as treatment creams or makeup.
• If you wear glasses or sunglasses, make sure you clean them frequently to keep oil from clogging the pores around your eyes and nose.
• If you get acne on your body, try not to wear tight clothes. They don't allow skin to breathe and may cause irritation. Scarves, headbands, and caps can collect dirt and oil, too.
• Remove your makeup before you go to sleep. When buying makeup, make sure you choose brands that say "noncomedogenic" or "nonacnegenic" on the label. Throw away old makeup that smells or looks different from when you first bought it.
• Keep hair clean and out of your face to prevent additional dirt and oil from clogging your pores.
• Protect your skin from the sun. It may seem like a tan masks acne, but it's only temporary. A tan may worsen your acne, not improve it. Tanning also causes damage to skin that will eventually lead to wrinkles and increase your risk of skin cancer.

If you're concerned about acne, talk to a dermatologist. Dermatologists offer a range of treatments that help to prevent andacne scars. A dermatologist can help you find the treatment method that's best for you and can also give you lots of useful tips for dealing with acne and caring for your skin type. Some salons and spas have trained skin specialists, called estheticians, who can offer advice and skin care treatments.

Sun and Skin

We all know we need to protect our skin from the sun's harmful rays. Of course, it's impossible to avoid the sun — who wants to hide indoors when it feels so great to get outside? And the sun's not all bad, anyway: Sunlight helps our bodies create vitamin D. So follow these tips when you're outdoors to help manage sun exposure:

• Wear sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15, even if it's cloudy or you don't plan on spending a lot of time outdoors. If you sweat a lot or go swimming, reapply sunscreen every 1½ to 2 hours (even if the bottle says the sunscreen is waterproof).
• Choose a sunscreen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays. Look for the words "broad spectrum protection" or UVA protection in addition to the SPF of 15 or greater. Select a sunscreen that says "nonacnegenic" or "noncomedogenic" on the label to help keep pores clear.
• The sun's rays are strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., so reapply sunscreen frequently and take breaks indoors if you can. If your shadow is longer than you are tall, then it's a safer time to be in the sun (you should still wear sunscreen, though).
• Apply more sunscreen (with higher SPF) when you're around reflective surfaces like water, snow, or ice.
• We all know that the sun can damage skin, but did you know it can contribute to eye problems, too? Protect your face and eyes with a hat and sunglasses that provide 100% UV protection.
• Some medications, such as prescription acne medications, can increase your sensitivity to the sun (and to tanning beds). So if you're taking medication, increase your sun protection.
• If you want the glow of a tan, try faking it with self-tanners. Avoid tanning beds. They still contain some of the same harmful UV rays as the sun.

Cold Sores

Cold sores usually show up as tender blisters on the lips. They are caused by a type of herpes virus (HSV-1, which most often is not sexually transmitted) so they are contagious from person to person. Once you get this virus it stays in your body, meaning you'll probably get cold sores every now and then throughout your life.

Here are ways you can help prevent cold sores from making an appearance (or reappearance if you've had them in the past):

• Avoid getting cold sores in the first place by not sharing stuff like lip balm, toothbrushes, or drinks with other people who might have cold sores. The virus that causes cold sores is transmitted through the nose (in mucus) and the mouth (in saliva).
• People who have the virus know that cold sores can flare up from things like too much sun, stress, or being sick. Just one more reason to lather on that suntan lotion, eat well, exercise, and get plenty of sleep!

If you do have a cold sore, here are some tips for keeping yourself comfortable:

• Take acetaminophen or ibuprofen if the cold sores are painful.
• Suck on ice pops or cubes to ease pain and keep cold sores cool.
• Stay away from acidic foods (like oranges, tomatoes, and lemonade) and salty, spicy foods, which can cause irritation.
• Don't pick at cold sores while you're waiting for them to go away. They may bleed or become infected with bacteria or you could spread the virus.

Usually, cold sores go away on their own after a week or two. But if you get them often or they're a problem, talk to your doctor or dermatologist, who may be able to prescribe medication to alleviate symptoms and shorten the amount of time cold sores last.

Eczema

Eczema is a condition that causes skin to become red, itchy, and dry. If you have eczema, you might notice that you are prone to getting itchy rashes — especially in places like where your elbows and knees bend or on your neck and face. The symptoms of eczema can vary from person to person.

Though you can't cure eczema forever, you can take steps to prevent it from flaring:

• Stay away from things like harsh detergents, perfumed soaps, and heavily fragranced lotions that tend to irritate the skin and trigger eczema.
• Because hot water dries by quick evaporation and over-washing with soap may dry skin, take short, warm showers and baths. If you're going to have your hands in water for a long time (like when you're washing dishes or your car), try wearing gloves. Detergent can dry and irritate skin.
• Soothe your skin with regular applications of a fragrance-free moisturizer to prevent itching and dryness. Creams generally moisturize a bit better and last longer than lotions for most people. Creams work best if applied when the skin is slightly wet, like just after bathing.
• Be careful which fabrics you wear. Cotton is good because it's breathable and soft. (But if you are exercising, some of the newer synthetic materials actually keep you drier and are better for you than cotton.) Try to stay away from materials like wool or spandex that may cause irritation or allergic reactions.
• Keep stress in check. Because stress can lead to eczema flares, try activities like yoga or walking after a long day to keep your stress levels low.
• If you wear makeup, look for brands that are free of dyes and fragrances that can aggravate eczema.

If you're having trouble managing your eczema, talk to a dermatologist, who can suggest ways to better control it.

Other Skin Problems

Warts are tiny skin infections caused by viruses of the human papilloma virus (HPV) family. There's no way to prevent warts from occurring (other than avoiding contact with people who have them). But if you do get them, don't rub, pick, or scratch them because you can spread the virus and get new warts.

Some over-the-counter medications containing special acids can help get rid of warts, but it's always a good idea to see your doctor before trying one. If you find warts in your genital area, you should see your doctor, who can recommend the best treatment method for that sensitive area.

Another type of wart-like viral infection is molluscum contagiosum. (It's not as scary as its name sounds!) Like warts, it can be transmitted through scratching and sexual contact.

Fine white or purplish lines on the skin called stretch marks are pretty common in most teens. Stretch marks are formed when the tissue under your skin is pulled by rapid growth or stretching, like during puberty. Stretch marks usually fade on their own over time. Talk to a dermatologist if you're concerned about them.

Because our skin is the most visible reflection of what's going on in our bodies, people equate healthy skin with beauty. But healthy skin is about more than just good looks; it's essential to our survival. So keep your skin glowing with the right skin care techniques and by eating well and getting lots of exercise.

Source link: http://kidshealth.org/teen/your_body/take_care/skin_tips.html

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SHOULD YOU GET A FACIAL?

In This Article:

+ Recommended Products

+ Hype & Hope

+ Benefits of a Facial

+ What are Hydra facials?

+ What a Facial Cannot Do

+ Good vs. Bad Aestheticism

+ What About Devices Used During a Facial?

+ After the Facial, Get Ready for Sales Pressure!

+ The Facial Decision

Women routinely ask us if getting a facial is worth their time and money. Facials are a confusing issue, primarily because of the endless misinformation about exactly what they can do for your skin. In fact, more often than not, women who have gotten facials give us mixed feedback: Some tell us they love how their skin looks, others see no change in their skin, and still others report that they've ended up with more problems than they had before they got a facial.

Hype & Hope

Aside from the hype and nonsense you read in fashion magazines and the pictures you see of women serenely wrapped in a towel with a mask on their face and cucumber slices over their eyes (cucumbers do nothing for the eye area), the reality is facials can be hurtful or helpful, depending on the person who performs your facial, what exactly they are using, and what they are doing to your skin.

Without question, facials are not mandatory for you to have beautiful, healthy skin, but for some skin types, and when done right, facials can be a beautiful addition to your skin-care routine. On the flipside, when done wrong, they are a waste of time and can even damage your skin.

Benefits of a Facial

Many women who've had facials report that they get them because it's a relaxing experience. But, ideally, a facial should be about skin care, not just relaxation. If the relaxing experience is the sole reason you get facials (meaning you don't see much of a difference in your skin from the experience), then you're better off getting a full body massage instead. That's far more relaxing and it doesn't put your skin at risk. Here is what a great facial can provide over and above a relaxing experience:

• Thoroughly cleansed skin.
• Softening and removal of blackheads and whiteheads (called milia) via manual extraction.
• Temporary improvement of severely dehydrated skin with rich, emollient nourishing masks that begin restoring skin's natural barrier function.
• Plumping skin with a well-formulated moisturizer, which temporarily smooths out wrinkles.
• Exfoliating skin with a gentle scrub, a light chemical peel, or a peel-off mask to achieve a smoother surface.
• Help to fade brown discolorations, improve skin tone, and significantly reduce wrinkles with a professional-strength AHA or BHA treatment.

In addition to the above-mentioned benefits, a skilled aesthetician will not let you leave without applying a well-formulated sunscreen. The sunscreen should contain only titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as active ingredients to eliminate any risk of irritation, especially given that most women's skin is more sensitive right after having a facial.

It's important to keep in mind that what you do daily to take care of your skin is more important than what you do occasionally, but the combination of a great facial and a great skin-care routine can have impressive results.

For most skin types a great facial should include gentle exfoliation with a properly formulated alpha hydroxy acid (AHA, active ingredient is glycolic or lactic acid) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA, active ingredient is salicylic acid) product. These are truly anti-aging, as they effectively reveal younger skin, even out skin tone, and build collagen. (Learn why exfoliation is so important and which method is best for you.) A facial also should include an antioxidant treatment, along with information on why antioxidants are so important for healthy skin. They not only repair damaged skin cells, but also help prevent further damage to the skin.

Your aesthetician also should be able to recommend the appropriate skin-care products for you to use at home, and not hesitate to recommend brands or products the spa doesn't sell. Of course, if healthy, younger-looking skin is your concern, your aesthetician should, above all else, recommend daily use of a sunscreen rated SPF 25 or greater!

What are Hydra facials?

The latest skin-care fad is the Hydra Facial, which is essentially a milder form of microdermabrasion (a topical scrub procedure), combined with cleansing in a single process. The Hydra Facial also claims to “infuse” serums and exfoliate ingredients like AHAs into skin and vacuum substances ("impurities") from skin.

Compared to a standard microdermabrasion treatment (which can be rough on skin if not done with great care), the level of abrasiveness from Hydrafacials is low. Although that may sound better, it means that the unimpressive results from microdermabrasion are going to be even less impressive with the HydraFacial! At best, microdermabrasion makes skin smoother and the inflammation swells skin so wrinkles and large pores are temporarily less visible.

Back to the “infusion” of serums and AHA/BHA exfoliants—few spas (none that we could find) were willing to disclose the ingredients used in this procedure. Given what we know of how such ingredients work, the whole process doesn’t make sense. AHA/BHA exfoliants at professional peel strength must be applied with caution and rinsed from skin. Since skin isn’t rinsed during the HydraFacial process, we suspect at best you're getting a fancy application of a mild AHA or BHA exfoliant (that may or may not be at the correct pH to work properly).

The “serum” stage couldn’t possibly be more beneficial than simply applying your own serum. Besides, you need some ingredients to remain on skin’s surface to repair its barrier, strengthen its environmental defenses, and help mitigate the free-radical damage we get from being in an oxygen-rich environment or being exposed to pollutants. If everything penetrated past the surface, nothing would be left to protect skin’s first line of defense! Bottom line: Hydrafacials aren't really worth your time or money. You'd get more bang for your buck investing in a cleansing brush such as the Clarisonic!

Collagen has no benefit when applied topically beyond moisturizing—even if you could force collagen into the deeper layers of skin, your body wouldn’t know what to do with it. Unfortunately, the only collagen that matters where anti-aging is concerned is what’s produced by your own body.

What a Facial Cannot Do

Many people look to facials to address a range of skin-care concerns, from acne to wrinkles. A skilled aesthetician, using superior techniques and products, can help you address most of these issues to some extent, but facials are not cure-alls, and they absolutely do not replace what you use at home on a daily basis. Here is what a facial cannot do:

• Eliminate acne.
• Permanently fade discolorations.
• Replace cosmetic corrective procedures such as Botox, lasers, or dermal fillers.
• Treat rosacea or persistent redness (oftentimes the products and the amount of manipulation involved during a facial make sensitive, reddened skin worse).
• Lift sagging skin.
• Eliminate dark circles or puffy eyes.
• Decongest skin and/or eliminate "toxins." (Skin cannot become "congested" and it doesn't contain toxins that your body cannot eliminate on its own via the liver and kidneys.)

Good vs. Bad Aestheticians

A good aesthetician (and there are many) will know how to help repair and maintain a healthy skin surface. This is important for all skin types, but especially if you have reddened skin, rosacea, eczema, acne, or sensitive skin.

A well-trained aesthetician also should ask you detailed questions about your skin, including what you do to take care of it and whether or not you're using any topical or oral prescription medications. All of these impact how the aesthetician will treat your skin, including what type of products he or she will use. Above all else, a good aesthetician will take every precaution to avoid causing needless irritation to your skin. He or she should know that irritation can cause a host of problems, such as the following:

• Steaming skin, especially with abnormally hot steam, can worsen redness and potentially result in broken capillaries that show up as thin, spider-like lines.
• Being too aggressive with extractions for acne or blackheads can make clogged pores worse and push acne lesions deeper into your skin.
• Using essential oils, all of which may smell divine, but fragrance isn't skin care. All fragrance, synthetic or natural, causes irritation, and irritation harms your skin.
• Using products that contain irritating ingredients such as alcohol, camphor, or menthol. Even if you cannot see or feel the irritation, it's happening beneath the skin's surface. The result? Damaged collagen production and destruction of vital substances your skin needs to look young and healthy.
• Using "facial rejuvenation" devices without proper training or a working knowledge of what the client can realistically expect.

Unless you are having extractions performed, a good facial should include a relaxing face massage and/or hand and arm massage. Learning how to perform such massages generally is included in the training curriculum at state-accredited aesthetician schools (often with a European influence). However, you should not get a facial massage if you have broken capillaries, rosacea, or sensitive skin. And, if you do get one, it should never involve pulling or tugging at the skin because the pulling and tugging can increase sagging by breaking down the elastin in skin.

What About Devices Used During a Facial?

Many facials include the use of hand-held devices or "machines" claiming to do everything from improving wrinkles, dark circles, and puffy eyes to dealing with acne, blackheads, and on and on. As intriguing as these options sound (and you will be tempted), for the most part they are either a complete waste of time and money or, depending on how often they're done, actually have negative consequences for your skin.

The most typical treatment machines you are likely to encounter when getting a facial include oxygen-infusing machines, peeling devices, product-infusing (i.e. "microcurrent") devices, and microdermabrasion systems. Here is what you need to know about these devices and their use.

Peeling devices (not including microdermabrasion machines) are hand-held tools with a hard metal edge the aesthetician scrapes across the surface of the skin, much like you might scrape a layer of frost off your car's windshield. Sometimes these peeling tools are combined with another type of treatment in one machine, such as a device that uses the peeling step along with an oxygen-infusing option.

• Pros: When used by a skilled aesthetician for the proper skin type (and used with extreme caution), a scraping tool can effectively exfoliate skin.
• Cons: Device is "dragged" and pulled along the skin to exfoliate. It's an archaic and potentially damaging way to exfoliate skin.

Product-infusing devices can be separate machines or can be combined with a peeling device for an all-in-one treatment. Product-infusing devices (often referred to as "microcurrent" devices) typically use either electrical currents or ultrasonic waves. Supposedly, the currents or waves open pathways between skin cells so the ingredients in the skin-care products can go deeper into the skin to perform all sorts of miracles, such as lifting, firming, and reducing wrinkles. The sales pitch usually mentions that the more often you have these treatments the longer these pathways will remain open. As it turns out, there's no substantiated research proving these machines work as claimed.

Even if these machines could "infuse" ingredients deeper into your skin, what happens if those ingredients go right past where they can do your skin the most good? Plus, there's the potential risk of getting unwanted ingredients (like preservatives or problematic plant extracts) deeper into the skin, where their negative effects may be worse. Even beneficial ingredients like vitamin C or retinol might be more sensitizing if they are "pushed" deeper into the skin, rather than being allowed to penetrate the uppermost layers on their own.

• Pros: None.
• Cons: The claims for product-infusing devices are complete and utter nonsense. There is no published research showing these devices have any benefit for skin. Even assuming that electricity or ultrasonic waves could open pathways into the skin's dermis (lower layer), doing so would actually damage your skin. "Pathways into skin" means the surface and lower layers of the skin would no longer be cohesive, but torn open, which would allow penetration by bacteria, pollution, and ingredients in skin-care products that should remain on the surface, where they can be washed off.

Negative ion pore-clearing therapy (often administered by a peeling device or product-infusing device) doesn't have any impact on skin, whether for opening pores or removing toxins or anything else having to do with skin. Negative ions cannot "resonate" or move through skin, whether they are in the air or generated by a machine, so they can't affect the pore. It may be a surprise to you, but skin has no ability to excrete toxins.

Toxins cannot leave your body through the pores or through your skin. Real detoxification of foreign substances takes place in the liver. The liver changes a toxin's chemical structure so it can be excreted by the kidneys, which filter it safely from the blood into the urine. Skin can't modify toxins in any way, so the toxins can't exit through the skin via sweat or other means. People often think sweating eliminates toxins, but sweat's chief function is to cool the body, not eliminate toxins. Sweat can eliminate some by-products, such as urea, but these by-products aren't the kind of toxins spa personnel are referring to. They usually are referring to chemicals in skin-care products, processed foods, or air pollution.

• Pros: Because both positive and negative ions can be inhaled and because negative ions are generated in abundance after a storm (when the air is calm and seems very fresh), we know they can have a relaxing effect on the body. There is some research showing that negative ions can have the same relaxing effect on the body when inhaled, even if they are mechanically generated, but this inhalation of ions has nothing to do with eliminating toxins or clearing pores of cellular debris that leads to clogs and acne.
• Cons: Ions, whether positively or negatively charged, cannot open, close, or clarify pores, nor can they eliminate toxins; this type of treatment cannot improve acne.

Microdermabrasion, also called the Lunchtime Peel, Italian Peel, or Paris Peel (among other names), is a non-surgical skin-resurfacing procedure. A machine with a small vacuum-like tip shoots a jet of small, abrasive crystals (usually aluminum or magnesium oxide) onto the skin, and then vacuums them off the skin. Depending on the pressure and intensity settings (which are controlled by the technician), you get different depths of exfoliation. The stronger the setting, the deeper the effects, but that also means more risk to your skin. Despite the "peel" names microdermabrasion also goes by, technically, it is not a peel (like an alpha hydroxy acid peel), but rather a machine-calibrated way to scrub and polish skin.

• Pros: Because microdermabrasion is an effective way to exfoliate skin more deeply, it can help refine pores, improve the appearance of acne scars, and help even out blotchy, thickened, sun-damaged skin.
• Cons: It can be too harsh on skin when overdone or done too often, leading to collagen breakdown. Some skin tones may get dark or light patches as side effects from the treatment if it is too strong.

Oxygen-infusion machines apply a concentrated amount of topical oxygen to facial skin via a small tube hooked up to an oxygen machine. Your face is covered with a special domed mask to keep the oxygen from escaping. Before the oxygen is turned on, your face is prepped with a product-infused cloth or a facial mask. Once the dome mask is secured and the machine is turned on, it's left running for about 20 minutes. Depending on the spa and the aesthetician, a special tool that delivers concentrated bursts of oxygen to key areas may be used during the treatment.

• Pros: Although theoretically this procedure can improve circulation and promote healing, most researchers find this highly unlikely, especially if used on otherwise healthy, intact skin.
• Cons: There is no research showing oxygen-infusion machines have any benefit for wrinkles or aging skin whatsoever. Oxygen cannot pass through skin unless it is delivered in a hyperbaric (pressurized) booth. The short-term impact can be an increase in free-radical damage, thus negating any positive results.

After the Facial, Get Ready for Sales Pressure!

The retail portion of your appointment is a major way salons and spas make money. Most aestheticians and support staff are expected to make monthly sales goals, so you can expect a fair amount of pressure to buy products. Although you may be tempted, more often than not the products are absurdly expensive, with equally absurd claims. It is also shocking how many spa products are packaged in jars, when so much research is available proving that many of the key anti-aging ingredients will not remain stable in this kind of packaging.

Also worth knowing: Spa staff often receive training from the product lines themselves, which, as you might expect, often is biased, based on a lot of hype and reinforcement of the brand's absurd claims. An aesthetician who has been to the company-sponsored training sessions, and then clearly gone beyond that to learn about the actions of specific ingredients and devices, and about skin-care products is one worth getting to know!

The Facial Decision

After considering the information above, the bottom line is this: A good facial can make you look and feel better than when you arrived for your appointment, but whether done once or routinely, facials cannot perform miracles, and they have their limits. Now that you have the facts, you will get the best results possible from a facial, not waste money, and feel great!

Source link: http://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skin-care-basics/_/should-you-get-a-facial

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DO I NEED A TONER?

In This Article:

+ Recommended Toners

+ Toner Confusion

+ All About Toners

+ What is the Difference Between Toners?

+ Can I Skip the Toner?

+ Toners for Different Skin Types

+ Which Paula's Choice Toner is Right for Me?

+ Toners for Aging and Sun Damage

The Paula's Choice Research Team is often asked about toners. Most of the time, people just want to know what a toner does, if they need to use one, and if so, which ones are the best for their skin type? These are great questions!

Toner Confusion

As a result of outdated information, toners have become a confusing category of skin-care products. Because of misperceptions, many fashion magazines, dermatologists, and even cosmetics salespeople advise against using a toner, or simply dismiss toners as an optional step. That is disappointing, because a well-formulated toner can provide truly amazing benefits for your skin.

Once you understand how toners work, and know what ingredients are included in some toners that can be bad for your skin and what ingredients are essential for achieving a healthy, radiant glow, you'll find that applying a toner can be the perfect addition to your skin-care routine!

All About Toners

Toners are meant to be used after cleansing. They once were recommended as a way to restore skin's pH balance after using a bar soap or bar cleanser because those types of cleansers raise the skin's natural pH to a level that isn't good for your skin.

However, with today's gentle, water-soluble cleansers, the skin's pH doesn't change appreciably, and the fact that skin's pH recovers just fine on its own made the need for toners to adjust skin's pH fade away.

What we now know is that after cleansing, what your skin needs is a range of ingredients that restore and repair its surface. Skin can never get too much of these important ingredients, which include antioxidants and skin-repairing substances such as glycerin, fatty acids, and ceramides. The right toner can give your skin a healthy dose of what it needs to look younger, fresher, and smoother, right after cleansing and throughout the day.

What Is the Difference Between Toners?

Finding the perfect toner for your skin isn't easy, mainly because there are so many poorly formulated toners. Basically, toners can be divided into three general types:

1. Alcohol-based formulas that often include "astringent" ingredients such as witch hazel. Toners with alcohol and astringent ingredients should always be avoided because they cause free-radical damage and irritation, which hurts your skin's ability to repair itself and damages its ability to produce healthy collagen.
2. Water and glycerin or glycol-based formulas with fragrant extracts such as rose water or citrus fruits. These types of toners often are labeled fresheners or clarifiers, and are little more than eau de cologne for your face. Such overly fragrant toners are a common cause of reactions that are damaging to skin.
3. Water-based formulas loaded with beneficial ingredients such as skin-repairing substances,antioxidants, and cell-communicating ingredients such as niacinamide. These are the ONLY types of toner we recommend. We guarantee that every toner from Paula's Choice matches this description, and there are similar toners from other brands we recommend on Beautypedia.

Can I Skip the Toner?

If the toner is well formulated, Paula and her team strongly recommend that you make toner an essential part of your cleansing routine because the benefits can be felt and seen almost instantly.

On the other hand, absolutely do not use any toner that contains irritating ingredients, such as alcohol, citrus, or overly fragrant ingredients, whether they are synthetic or natural. Irritation hurts your skin's healing process and reduces healthy collagen production—two things you must avoid if you want to improve your skin!

If the toner you're considering is filled with great ingredients (like the toners from Paula's Choice), then skipping this step is cheating your skin of more of the beneficial ingredients it needs to become healthier and act younger! A toner that contains state-of-the-art ingredients proven to smooth, soften, calm, and repair skin is a wonderful addition to anyone's skin-care routine!

Toners for Different Skin Types

Toners for Oily or Blemish-Prone Skin: If you have oily or blemish-prone skin, you need to be especially careful when shopping for toners. Almost without exception, the toners that claim to be specifically for these skin types and concerns are not going to help. Why are they a problem? They're a problem because most toners for oily, blemish-prone skin contain irritants (such as alcohol, witch hazel, or menthol) that hurt your skin's healing process, make blemishes worse, and, surprisingly, stimulate oil production at the base of the pore. Using the wrong toner on oily, blemish-prone skin guarantees you'll see more oil, overall redness and longer-lasting red marks, and possibly a dry, flaky surface with oily skin underneath.

The toners that are best for oily or blemish-prone skin are those whose ingredients help repair skin's surface, make skin feel smoother, reduce enlarged pores, and contain cell-communicating ingredients that help train pores to handle excess oil in a more efficient manner. For some skin types, especially during summer or in warmer climates, a well-formulated toner may be the only "moisturizer" your oily skin needs!

Toners for Dry or Sensitive Skin: Those with dry or sensitive skin typically shy away from toners because of their astringent, drying reputation. After all, the last thing dry, sensitive skin needs are irritants that make it even drier or redder! But the right toner for dry or sensitive skin can make a world of difference: You'll see less redness, less flaking, and your skin will feel soothed and comfortable.

If you're skeptical (and we can't say we blame you) give a well-formulated toner a try—we're betting you'll be pleasantly surprised with how your skin improves!

Toners for Combination Skin: If your skin is oily on your forehead, nose, and chin and dry to normal on your cheeks and jaw area, then you have classic combination skin. Using the wrong toner on combination skin will exaggerate the dry areas and make oily areas worse (this is doubly true if blemishes are present).

What's the solution? You need a gentle, alcohol-free toner with ingredients that help normalize your skin, so you'll see less dryness and reduced oiliness. With ongoing use as part of a complete skin-care routine, you'll also see enlarged pores become smaller.

Which Paula's Choice Toner is Right for Me?

Although every Paula's Choice toner contains a range of ingredients that provide multiple benefits, each has distinctions that make them preferred for certain skin types or concerns:

• Resist Advanced Replenishing Toner is recommended for normal to dry skin (including sensitive skin) concerned with reducing wrinkles and repairing sun-damaged skin.
• Resist Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner significantly improves skin tone and texture while shrinking pores and calming redness from breakouts. It is designed for those with normal to oily skin.
• Hydralight Healthy Skin Refreshing Toner is designed to hydrate and refresh normal, oily, or combination skin that also may be sensitive.
• Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner is designed to normalize and reduce enlarged pores for those with normal, oily, or combination skin that also may be sensitive.
• Moisture Boost Hydrating Toner is designed to hydrate and replenish normal to dry skin that also may be sensitive.
• Skin Recovery Enriched Calming Toner is designed to address persistent dryness or sensitivity, including from rosacea, for those with normal, dry, or very dry skin.
• Earth Sourced Purely Refreshing Toner is a 98% natural formula suitable for all skin types. Helps repair skin with hyaluronic acid and antioxidants.

Toners for Aging and Sun Damage

All Paula's Choice toners are excellent options for anti-aging and for helping to repair sun damage while also addressing other concerns. In addition, you can alternate, using any of our toners along with Resist Advanced Replenishing Toner for wonderful results.

As you might have gathered from the above discussion, when shopping for toners it's critical that you make sure you consider only those that treat your skin to nothing but beneficial ingredients. There is never—never—a good reason to use a toner with irritants, regardless of the claims on the label. A brilliantly formulated toner, on the other hand, can be a valuable addition to your skin-care routine, whether your concern is anti-aging or you're struggling with dryness, excess oil, sensitivity, or the dual nature of combination skin.
Source link: http://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skin-care-basics/_/do-i-need-a-toner

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